
This is not, as mentioned hereintofore, a food blog. But special times call for special measures, and it is time to speak of holiday food.
Every family has its particular recipes at this time of year, whether they be for sausage gravy, lefse, fruitcake, or alcoholic enhancer to pour into the punch and/or egg nog. With many families, too busy in the modern age for lutefisk or hasenpfeffer, this is expressed in cookies. I have known several families who look ahead with joy and dread to the annual making of pfeffernusse. I have eaten the pfeffernusse of at least five different families, each claiming it as an old German, Bohemian, French, Danish, or Welsh recipe. (The Welsh family told me they were pepper nuts, which is, of course, the English translation of the original (ahem) German name.)
My family did not make pfeffernusse, though we accepted any cookie donation (like the deep-fried springles apparently made with a branding iron in batter, frosted sugar cookies, and the ones with the chocolate star in the middle.) We did have three cookie traditions for the holidays, each with its own ritual.

DECORATED SUGAR COOKIES: Once a year, the Christmas cookie cutters were brought out from their hiding place in the belly of the kitchen china cabinet. They spent the rest of the year in a paper bag, and a mixed bag it was: at least one from somewhere in the 1930s ever so slightly rusted, a majority of steel from, no doubt, the turn of the Fifties, and one or two plastic ones. There were snowmen, Santas, stars, bells, and other holiday shapes. These were for cutting shapes out of sugar cookie dough, rolled out by Mom and, in the early years, cut out and placed on the cookie sheets by her as well. WE were there as artists, not artisans.
Our job involved colored sugar, red cinnamon drops, and metallic sugar balls impossible to eat and eventually, I believe, declared toxic by the FDA. We naturally went all out for those two last ingredients, which could be jammed down into the dough and which made the cookies very hard to eat afterward. (But perfect for reindeer noses, snowman buttons, and bell clappers.) We DID eat these, crunching against the green and red sugar granules and chewing the cinnamon blobs which invariably went all the way through and melted to the cookie sheet, but we weren’t fanatics about it. Decorating these cookies was a lot more fun than eating them, and I believe this cookie was the first holiday tradition to be abandoned. (There was a LOT of sugar for decorating left over, which, since we never used it for anything else, remained tucked up into the top of the spice cabinet until the Family Home was broken up and one sentimental fool took them home to sit in my…in that person’s cupboard.)

BRAUNSCHWEIGER: A family MUST have at least one cookie tradition with a foreign name. Braunschweiger is, of course, another name for liverwurst, and I never did track down the reason for applying it to a cookie. This was an ancient family recipe, going back, I was told, to an issue of Good Housekeeping my great-grandmother read in 1903. I have not checked this out either. I worked in a library, I did, and it’s a rule that the longer ago the article you’re looking for was published, the more likely that the year, month, and name of the magazine are incorrect.
This was the closest thing we had to pfeffernusse, but the ingredients are completely different, involving honey and mace and lemon peel with a LOT of flour and other spices. It had to be mixed by someone with a very strong arm until it formed a consistency that threatened to break the spoon. THEN, and this made it one of the most frustrating of all cookie traditions, the result had to be loaded into a cookie press and squeezed through a thin, ridged template to make long brown ribbons of cookie. All of this was beyond the skill set of children, and very nearly beyond that of my mother, who nonetheless, in spite of managing to strip the threads or break the handle of the cookie press every other year, produced a cookie which smelled of lemon and honey and brown sugar and was eaten by true connoisseurs (me) when still warm on the cooling racks, until chased off by the parent who had strained her muscles making them and didn’t want them disappearing before they were cool enough for the cookie jar. (We did not own a cookie jar. REAL cookies resided among a nest of paper towels in a large empty coffee can. This was useful. The lid of a coffee can does not clink, so you could not be heard sneaking out just one.) Properly made and kept in a tightly sealed coffee can, these cookies could last decades (honey being a miracle ingredient.) As if.

ANISE SNAPS: Of the three cookie creations, this is the one which has actually been produced by the current generation. It requires neither cookie press nor unchewable decorations. It is a round cookie well decked with anise seed, which gives the house an amazing aroma when cooked, attracts hunting dogs (which are frequently trained to follow a scent with anise), and provides a popular touch when taken to the dessert bar at the office party. Everything else on the table at the office parties where I slipped in these snaps, see, was thoroughly sweet, and the licorice/anise flavor provided a contrast which people liked, not as a substitute for iced gingerbread, but as a palate cleanser between that and the pecan molasses bars.
The irony of my taking these cookies out in public is that I never, to the best of my memory, actually ate an anise snap which had come out the way it was supposed to. My mother, unnecessarily humble about her baking, always gave in to despair while making these, as they did NOT look like the ones HER mother made. She settled for producing enough which were done clear through and unburnt enough to give people on her cookie gift list. (She always denied I had never eaten a real one, as she recalled a distant year when, for the only time, the cookies were just perfect. It must be true, but the rare cookies of that year did not stick in my memory with all the burnt and underdone snaps.)
I can tell you the proper finishing point for these cookies is a very delicate matter and I was, myself, relieved to find at least twenty (the recipe makes a bunch) fit for people to see. This did not bother me as much as it did my mother, because I could remember many happy times eating as many of the burnt or underdone snaps as I wanted. (The underdone ones are a little better, especially when warm, but don’t tell the FDA I said so. Eggs, you know.) But the smell of them in the kitchen was itself worth the trouble.
Having no office parties to attend these days, I have not hauled out the jar of anise or (I have one) the cookie press. I have developed new traditions which are entertaining, though they hardly take the place of the originals. Wanna hear the story of the packaged tree-shaped sugar cookies I bought on special and ate over the next three months until I started to wonder why the picture on the box showed red and green cookies, while mine were red, green, and blue? It’s a rouser, and maintains the basic truth of MY family’s cookie traditions.
As I will demonstrate if I can ever locate my great-grandmother’s copy of the Three Stooges Cookbook.































































